Are all belay devices equal?!
Over the years I have had the opportunity to belay with a wide variety of auto-locking, auto-blocking and sticht plate devices.
Every device has come with advantages and posed disadvantages. In an ideal World we would select the correct functional device to match our climbing style, partner mass and rope diameter (a few considerations). This is usually impractical and expensive.
As climbers, we ask the devices to be grabby and create friction when required. Especially during the times we need to catch a fall or during abseiling. Then we want the device to be slick when paying rope out to a leading climber. We want all of this without an inflated price tag and with the minimal of faff and complication when in use.
The DMM Pivot is proving to be an excellent device for a variety of situations encountered when trad climbing.
After reading that the DMM Pivot had won the 2015 Industry Award at OutDoor Friedrichshafen I thought I should probably give it a try. As an AMI member, I thought I should support our Welsh manufacturers!
I work in a variety of venues and with a wide range of learners. After personal climbing in the Lake District, running introductory days to multi-pitch climbing in Snowdonia and coaching indoor climbing with the Pivot, I have to say I have been really impressed.
I have been using 10mm diameter ropes and conditions have been dry. The device has a really smooth action when taking in and when paying out. When lowering it has given ample friction that inspires confidence. I would definitely recommend it for anyone climbing in the ways I have suggested.
The device is most similar to the Petzl Reverso in that it gives the opportunity to be used in guide mode as an auto-block. The attachment hole (The grey pivot bar) is aligned in the same orientation. This is 90degrees different to the Black Diamond ATC-XP plate.
I have preferred this orientation as I have found it easier to use. The moving pivot bar does make unlocking the plate in guide mode seem much easier.
DMM’s update on the Outdoor Award
Although new to using this plate I can say I am a convert. It is one of the best I have used. For indoor climbers not requiring the guide mode the DMM Mantis is coming soon. This looks similar in design to the Pivot without the bar so you should look out for this. In the future we have the DMM Grip to get excited about! A very different and innovative design!! A single rope device that opens around a central axis to increase friction. Check it out. Magnets to bring the device together! Way out there!
I am sure AMI members will be really happy to use the Pivot device when working in climbing situations with clients.
Phil Collier is an Mountain Instructor, Development Coach & PE Teacher.
Member of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors
philcollierMI 
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